Replacing a toilet doesn’t have to feel like a complicated plumbing project; it’s surprisingly doable once the steps are laid out clearly. With a few basic tools and a bit of patience, most homeowners can take it from start to finish in just a couple of hours. It’s one of those tasks that looks intimidating until you try it, and then you realize it’s mostly about staying organized and taking it one step at a time. The process below covers the essential tools, how to remove the old toilet safely, how to install the new one properly, and the key checks to make before considering the job complete.
Tools and Materials Needed Before Starting
Before getting into how to replace a toilet, it helps to gather every tool and part you’ll need upfront. Nothing slows down a simple project faster than hunting for a missing wrench mid-install. With everything laid out and ready, the whole process feels smoother, quicker, and far less stressful.
- New toilet (bowl + tank)
- Wax ring or waxless seal
- Closet bolts
- Adjustable wrench
- Screwdriver
- Utility knife or putty knife
- Bucket
- Sponge or wet/dry vacuum
- Towels and gloves
- Caulk and caulking gun
- Optional: replacement flange, level, knee pads
How to Remove the Old Toilet Properly
Taking out an old toilet might look daunting, but it becomes much easier when handled one step at a time. Once the process is broken down, it feels far less overwhelming than expected. Most people are surprised by how smoothly it goes with a calm, steady approach.
Shut Off & Drain the Water
Turn the water valve behind the toilet clockwise until it stops. Flush once to empty most of the tank, then use a sponge or wet/dry vacuum to remove the remaining water from both the tank and bowl. This keeps the area clean during removal.
Disconnect the Supply Line
Loosen the nut connecting the water line to the tank. A bucket underneath helps catch any residual water.
Unbolt the Toilet & Break the Caulk Seal
Pop off the bolt caps at the base. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the nuts. If caulk surrounds the base, cut through it with a utility knife.
Lift the Toilet & Remove the Wax Ring
Lift the toilet straight upward and set it aside on towels. Scrape off the old wax ring using a putty knife. If the toilet flange is cracked or loose, repair or replace it before continuing.
Block Sewer Gases
Place an old towel into the drain opening. This keeps sewer gases from entering the room and prevents tools or debris from falling inside.
How to Install the New Toilet
Removing the existing toilet is the part most people worry about, but it’s usually simpler than expected. Once it’s lifted out and the old wax ring is cleaned up, the workspace immediately feels more manageable. With the area prepped and clear, installing the new toilet becomes a smooth, easy process.
Confirm the Rough-In Measurement
Measure the distance from the wall (not the baseboard) to the center of the drain opening. Most toilets use a 12-inch rough-in, though 10 and 14 inches also exist.
Install New Closet Bolts
Insert the new bolts into the slots on the flange and align them so they stand upright.
Position the Wax Ring or Waxless Seal
Press the seal firmly onto the horn of the toilet bowl or set it directly on the flange, depending on product instructions.
Set the Toilet Bowl
Carefully lower the bowl over the bolts, aiming straight down to avoid disturbing the wax ring. Apply steady pressure to seat it properly. Check that it’s level before tightening anything.
Tighten the Bolts
Place washers and nuts over the bolts and tighten each side slowly, alternating as you go. The goal is a solid, stable bowl, not a cracked one, so stop as soon as the bowl no longer shifts.
Attach the Tank
If the toilet comes in two pieces, install the rubber gasket and tank bolts and tighten until the tank rests securely against the bowl.
Reconnect the Water Supply
Attach the supply line to the tank and turn the valve back on slowly. Let the tank fill while watching for leaks.
Finishing Touches Before Considering the Job Complete
Check for Leaks
Inspect the tank connection, base, and water supply line. Even a small drip means a loose bolt or misaligned seal.
Install the Toilet Seat
Attach the seat hardware and tighten just enough to keep it stable without over-torquing.
Apply Caulk to the Base
A thin bead of caulk helps prevent water from seeping underneath and gives the installation a clean finished look.
Dispose of the Old Toilet Properly
Most waste transfer stations accept old toilets, and some municipalities offer curbside bulk pickup. Many facilities also recycle porcelain for use in construction materials.
Comparison Table: Common Seal Types for Toilet Installation
| Feature | Wax Ring | Waxless Seal |
| Installation | Compresses to create a seal | Press-fit design, cleaner to handle |
| Best Use | Standard, level floors | Uneven floors or beginner DIY installs |
| Reusability | Not reusable | Often reusable |
| Temperature Sensitivity | Can soften in heat | Stable in hot and cold environments |
| Difficulty Level | Simple but messy | Cleaner, easier for first-timers |
When Replacement Makes More Sense Than Repair
A full replacement is usually the smarter choice when:
- The toilet has cracks in the tank or bowl
- Frequent clogs occur despite proper use
- The toilet wastes water compared to modern low-flow designs
- Repairs cost nearly as much as a new unit
- The base rocks due to long-term flange damage
Knowing how to replace a toilet helps homeowners avoid repeated repair fees and enjoy a more efficient, reliable fixture.
Avoid These Common Mistakes During Installation
- Reusing an old wax ring
- Overtightening bolts and cracking the bowl
- Ignoring a damaged flange
- Forgetting to remove old caulk
- Failing to level the bowl before tightening
- Turning the water on too quickly
- Skipping the sewer-gas block during removal
Attention to these small details prevents leaks, odors, and future repairs.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to replace a toilet?
Most installations take one to three hours, depending on the condition of the flange and whether the toilet is one-piece or two.
Is a wax ring or a waxless seal better for beginners?
Waxless seals are cleaner and easier for first-timers, but wax rings still work extremely well and remain the standard choice for many installers.
Should the toilet be caulked to the floor?
Caulking isn’t required, but it stabilizes the base and prevents water from collecting underneath. Most professionals consider it a finishing step.
What if the toilet wobbles after tightening the bolts?
A wobble usually means the floor isn’t perfectly level or the flange height is off. Plastic shims can stabilize the base, followed by caulk to secure everything.
Final Thoughts
Replacing a toilet becomes surprisingly manageable when the steps are followed in order, and the right tools are on hand. With a fresh seal and steady tightening, the new fixture settles into place securely and stays leak-free for years. Learning how to do it not only avoids costly service calls but also gives homeowners the confidence and satisfaction of upgrading an essential part of their home themselves.
